Tuesday, 25 August 2009

The Old Man and the Sea and the Monkey in the tree

Okay so it's been a while. We had a boat chartered to take us over to Phi Phi Lay a small uninhabited island off the larger Phi Phi Don (where we were staying last) Unfortunately we were given a whole heap of excuses regarding why it would be better for us til wait until 12noon to go (mainly though it was because the lady had double booked) By 11.45am we couldn't see our destination from our island as a huge storm was blowing in... By 11.50 we spotted the tornedo on the horizon. Clearly the cowardly Jo was getting cold feet about this. Our lady promised us it would be okay by 1pm. By 1.30 it was an argument about safety and having our money back. In the end Simon agreed to go first thing the next day. He got up with the fishermen and bid my sleepy head adieu and it wasn't until I ventured out for a leisurely brekkie with my book about an hour after that I realised that the weather was equally as squally as the previous day. I then spend the next two hours biting my nails and singing "For those in trouble on the sea" Eventually a small dot appeared and slowly revealed the prow of my husband's vessel (phew) As usual I had worried for nowt as Simon had had a real adventure, being dropped off in the most beautiful emerald cove surrounded by tall cliffs and with no one else in site. He also got to swim over to a cliff and climb a bamboo ladder over the top and down onto Maya Bay (made famous in the flim the Beach- the book of which he's just finished reading)
The weather then set in and his boatman set sail (actually that's poetic licence as these are long tail boats and have no sails..but hey we're in with all the mariner terminology here) for home. After a few beers to celebrate his deliverance from the tempest we set sail again for the main town and the port to await our ferry to Rai Lay. The journey there was freezing- it was pouring rain and the inside cabin had its aircon on so high you could have kept meat hanging there for weeks. This meant we had to stand outside in the squall. Very exciting though.
Arrivng at Rai Lay in such grim conditions did nothing for impressions of this completely different yet dramatically beautiful point on the mainland near Krabi. One side is full of mangroves and the water is muddy and it has a completely different and spokyish feel-especially at night. The first night we sat on a bamboo jetty over the mangroves and watched afire fly work it's way through the exposed creepy roots.
Rai Lay is big with rock climbers and day light showed us why. The whole place is huge jungle covered lime stone stacks. The place is littered with caves too. Today we wandered over to the most beautifu; beach we've ever been on. (Await pics- though even they don't do it justice) On the way you walk along a path which abuts the base of these huge over hanging cliffs which have stalagtites spokily hanging down and often mingle with the jungley vines. At the end as you approach the beach is a the Princess cave. So allegedly a beautiful Indian Princess was drowned here when the ship carrying her foundered on the rocks. She was buried in the cave and fisherman believe she haunts it still and grants favours of good fishing and luck to those who pay their respects. To this end their is a shrine in the cave (similar to the spirit houses which are ubiquitous in peoples house out her) with food and drink left and flowers etc. The main gift for paying respect however seems to be phalic symbols. The place has heaps of them littering the little cave. When you look around you at the beach you can sort of see why as there are these enormous Lime Stone sea stacks looking phallically (if indeed one can loom phallically!!) from the most beautiful blue sea.
Oh and this morning we saw our first wild monkeys in the trees outside our room.
We're both doing well though we are tired of our constantly sticky sandy clothes (despite several laundry trips) We've now had three days at Rai Lay and tomorrow we're off to Krabi for a couple of days. We next make our way back to BK to end the trip with some shopping and so we can squeeze in the golden palace (if indeed one can squeeze in the golden palace!!!!)
Simon looks very brown and has lost the belly :( but he's still cuddly. I look like a victim of some dreadful curse - as usual! Despite the deet the mosquitos have really enjoyed my blood -so just hoping i don't develop Maleria or Dengue afterall.
Right well Simon is sitting over looking the sun setting and supping a mango smoothie looking very mellow as I sit typing in this hot little room so I think I'll check out for now.
Love to all...

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